Last season I had my eyes set on climbing Dracula, the classic New England ice climb on Frankenstein Cliff of Crawford Notch State Park, but never got on it. This Grade 4 is the one other climbs are compared with. The general consensus in my climbing circles is that if you can lead Dracula cool and calm, you’re probably ready to go onto bigger and better things. This beautiful icy steppingstone is what Jarod was aiming to accomplish today. I was lucky enough to follow him up on a cloudy day in February.
We were the first to arrive at Frankenstein. It was mid-week so we weren’t expecting crowds. The atmosphere was ripe for success as Jarod and I walked across the trestle. As we made our way to the base of the ice Jarod was calm and cool; he was considering his rack and nothing else. My hands were feeling kind of cold so I came up with an awful excuse and let Jarod take the lead. I wasn’t feeling up to the challenge.
He cruised up the left-side placing screws flawlessly and taking rests to conserve energy. Jarod put in an impressive show and was on top before I knew it. Climbing up on toprope after him I could only imagine how sloppy it would have been if I were leading instead.
We cleaned up and headed down to the tracks to collect our gear. Jarod took one last look into the bat cave where pairs of other climbers had set up shop. Our next objective was below the trestle in the back of the amphitheater.
Like the winged horse rising up to the peak of Mount Olympus this grade 3 pillar grows white and pure up the back of the amphitheater. Jarod had his fun on Dracula, and was admittedly feeling a little pumped, graciously offered me the lead on this popular climb. I comfortably made my way up the slabby lower half. While putting a sling through an I-thread on the upper column I looked down in disbelief. The gate on my Caritool had popped sideways dumping screws below me. I was able to recover one within a reasonable reach but the other was sacrificed to the gods as payment for taking a ride on the Pegasus. Rookie Move for sure.
This was my first climb in the Frankenstein amphitheater. When I reached the top I was met with an odd yet familiar sight. Many times before, I had crossed the trestle carefully looking up at the ice formations. From my vantage point today I had a completely foreign view. This is the beauty of climbing that outsiders do not understand. Much like a piece of art, climbing can offer us a new perspective.
We walked across the top of the cliff admiring the sun breaking through the clouds into the notch. At the bottom of our descent gully I was struck impressed with the immense size and glory of Chia, another NE Ice 3 climb which was in full bloom this time of year. The ramp looked to be travelled often but the chandeliered direct climb was impressive to say the least. Jarod and I were done for the day, but my gut was telling me I would be back. I can only hope the ice gods were satisfied with my meager offering.
climb with crowley 