December 29, 2012 – A break from work and from classes opened up adventuring opportunities to wrap up 2012. Kevin and I had been talking about Mount Washington for months and it looked like we would finally have the time and weather to stand on her summit. Mount Washington is known as Home of the Great Spirit but to me it’s always been New England’s alpine playground.
Kevin and I got started out of Pinkham Notch just after sunrise. The weather was clear and cold with only a light wind. This afternoon the forecast was calling for a shift in wind direction and speed with increasingly heavy snow. Our plan was to shoot up the hill early and be down below the trees before the snow picked up and stay at lower elevations for some ice climbing the following day. With three days left we intended to stretch every inch of snow and ice before ringing in the New Year.
At the junction where Tuckerman Ravine Trail branches off to the Lion Head our early start didn’t seem early enough. Ten to twelve climbers and day hikers were shedding layers and fiddling with their heavy winter packs. It seemed we all had the same idea, get up and down before the end of the year white-out.
The trail was packed out and we quickly made our way out of the safety of the trees
and out onto the exposed alpine garden. Taking shelter behind one of the larger
boulders, Kevin and I sat to eat, drink, and take in the situation. A guide and his client had been tailing us the whole day. From where we sat it became more difficult to see them although they were closer. The forecast of poor visibility proved to be true, but was happening earlier than expected. The team hiked past us and soon disappeared into the white. I looked to Kevin and reluctantly broke it to him I was ready to turn back downhill.

It’s times like this I’m reminded of what Robert Pirsig once wrote:
“Mountains should be climbed with as little effort as possible and without desire. The reality of your own nature should determine the speed. If you become restless, speed up. If you become winded, slow down.
You climb the mountain in an equilibrium between restlessness and exhaustion. Then when you’re no longer thinking ahead, each footstep isn’t just a means to an end but a unique event in itself. This leaf has jagged edges. This rock looks loose. From this place the sun is less visible even though closer.
These are the things you should notice anyway. To live only for some future goal is shallow. It’s the sides of the mountains which sustain life, not the top.”
We made a quick descent back into the trees and onto mellow terrain. Today was not
a great day to be on the highest peak in New England. As we hiked out I was continually distracted by the adjacent ridgeline to the west. The Boott Spur of Mount Washington is a stunning feature with three distinct icy gullies. I didn’t know it at the time, but this feature would hold my attention for weeks to come.
——————————————————————————
January 30, 2012 – The next morning was yet another early start. Enough snow fell overnight at the cabin to deem our road impassable. I took the half-mile hike to meet Jarod at the end of the road to get out to Crawford Notch before the crowds packed in. Last week I had walked along the tracks at Frankenstein Cliff to check out the building ice conditions. Temperatures had stayed low and what Jarod and I found across the trestle would make for excellent day to test each other out as new partners.
Continued in Part 2…
